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February 25, 2008

Cambodia: A lesson in being content

I went to southeast Asia recently, on vacation from my post as an English teacher in China, and my perception of the relationship between happiness and prosperity was completely upended.
As I have noted in the past, one of the most important lessons that I have learned so far during my Asia adventure is to expect the unexpected, or rather, to not expect anything at all. This is hard to do.
There is always an idea in one’s mind about what it is like in one place or another; what the people, the land, the culture and climate are like. This undoubtedly stems from what people have read or heard about the place, and even when someone studies the history, politics, or anthropology of a particular region, there is no substitute for actually seeing it. When people hear about stories of poverty or oppression, glory or conquest, the view is always shaped by the subjective reporting of the storyteller (no journalist is completely objective).
Even though I try to live with an open mind, I could not help but hold preconceived notions about one of the places I planned to visit: Cambodia. I read brief histories, news articles and travelogues about Cambodia, so inevitably my mind assembled a few ideas.
For many Americans, knowledge of southeast Asia comes from news reports and history lessons about the Vietnam War era. We remember Nixon sending troops up the Mekong River and bombers over Cambodian skies to “root out the reds.” Many people are familiar with the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge, a junta government — initially supported by the United States — that, according to the CIA, killed 1.5 million people, mostly innocent civilians.
All this pre-knowledge of a country I had never visited led me to believe the people who lived there would almost certainly be poor and unhappy. I had this grand confidence that, as an educated and compassionate Westerner, I had a lot to offer the people of Cambodia. After all, it was my country that helped lead this people into the abject despair and poverty in which I thought they all lived in, so therefore it was my obligation to help those who could not help themselves.
How arrogant I was.

My original intent was to go down there and get my hands dirty. Build some houses, remove some landmines, feed some children and make a difference. Finding these idealized volunteer opportunities proved to be impossible, and, in the end, I got sick and all I could do was spend tourist dollars and give change to those who asked for it.
A majority of what I saw was Western travelers gawking at the trash and dirt that covers the sides of the roads in cities like Siem Reap, Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh: "It’s so dirty. It’s so poor."
One place was especially depressing. It was on a main tourist road crowded by bars open to the street filled with local women and old white men from the United States, Europe and Australia. The men were not there to soak up the sun, but for entirely more despicable reasons involving the obviously underage girls that populate the bars along the strip. This left a deep impression in my mind.
Wherever there were tourists, there were touts, bleating the same salesman’s call, "Motobike, sir?" and whispering as I walked by, "You want lady? You want ganja?"
Whose fault is this, I thought. Was it like this before?
While I cannot come to a conclusive answer, I can say I saw the worst of what tourism has done to Cambodia.
The industry is a double-edged sword. It has certainly helped to lift Cambodia out of its nightmare and provided its people with jobs and greater access to the outside world, which has brought the story of the harshness of its recent history to the awareness of the millions of people worldwide. With greater exposure, there is more understanding.
But, in turn, this brings more people, more money, more crime and more corruption, resulting in tourist haunts filled with the deplorable characters and Westerners looking to exploit Cambodians. This forces the question, "Does it leave the normal Cambodian better or worse off than if tourism had never taken off in the first place?"
The majority of Cambodians I met were poor by Western economic standards. The moto drivers, outdoor restaurateurs and the handful of families I met told me that they live on only a few dollars a day, and things are not cheap. Rice costs about a dollar per kilogram, which will feed two or three people for one day. And potable water has to be purchased at the store for about the same price for a gallon.
They do not have much in material possessions, either. In Siem Reap, I visited a neighborhood erected on the banks of Siem Reap River. With no running water, erratic electricity and whole families living in homes the no bigger than a backyard shed in the Berkshires, these people live in poverty.
I remember thinking how terrible it must be to live like this, but when I met someone who spoke a little English, he did not complain. He told me this was how life was for him and his family, and they did not concern themselves with what they could not afford.
As I continued through the neighborhood I realized that, to the people living in these houses, money was not the most important part of their lives. Surviving — and seeing that others within their community survived — was entirely more important. It didn’t matter what some Western tourist thought. The most fragrant flowers bloomed pink, purple and white, children giggled as they played, women sang as they worked and men gossiped as they relaxed. They possessed something that is completely foreign to the West: content.
It’s true that their lives would be improved with essential services like clean water, health care and proper shelter, but their level of psychological satisfaction seems to surpass that of a typical person in the West. Cambodians have a tenacious spirit that has allowed them to overcome the awful tragedy of war, the stranglehold of poverty and the exploitation by Western powers through colonialization and tourist dollars.
Their strength of character, cultivated through centuries of challenges and accomplishments is greater than anything one arrogant 27-year-old Westerner could ever offer.

Chris Gauthier is a recent Massachusetts College of Liberal Arts graduate who is spending a year in China teaching English at Hebei University. He is writing regular columns for The Advocate during his stay in China. To read all of his Advocate columns, visit blogtheberkshires.com. Readers can also read more about his experiences on his own blog at chrisinchina.wordpress.com.

February 5, 2008

Happy Chinese New Year

I'm sitting at computer number 045 at Sensation Internet.Club in Jinghong in China's southern Yunnan Province. A young woman with a red handbag and a white sweater sits to my right playing an Internet Dancing game and chatting with some friends online.
Computer number 046, to my left, is one of the few vacant stations in the place; the other hundred or so computers are occupied with young Chinese playing computer video games, drinking cans of Fanta and chain smoking Honghe brand cigarettes. The place is dark, hot and filled with smoke.
Jinghong is the last big city on the way to the Laotian and Burmese borders. Only 94,162 people live here, according to a 2007 census, small by China standards, but big enough to have an airport and three bus terminals. It also has a port on the Mekong river where once a day a speedboat whisks passengers to Chiang Saen in northern Thailand, a seven-hour journey for 800 Yuan.
I'm not prepared to spend that much on a boat ride, so later today, I will hop on a bus and eventually reach the Laotian border by land. I'm headed south, and will eventually end up in Cambodia, where rooms are $2 a night and cold beer is a quarter.

I'm traveling cheaply. I'm wearing a week-old beard, which thins out into bald patches on my cheeks and chin (it's not very attractive). Outside the one open window in the corner, I can hear the faint banging of metal on metal — evidence of China's “construction boom” — a conversation in some dialect I've never heard, and the occasional honk of a car horn. The open window does little to alleviate the smoky situation in the room.
Earlier, I left my cheap hotel room with the hard bed and spotlessly clean Asian-style squat toilet, and rendezvoused up with some fellow travelers that I met earlier. Like them, I'm on vacation. Nearly everybody in China has a least a week or more off this time of year. It's Spring Festival time, a very important holiday for Chinese people across the globe. Its main day of celebration is Chinese New Year (the Chinese calender follows the lunar cycle, this year the new year falls on Feb. 8), when families gather together to eat Chinese dumplings (a symbol of prosperity for the coming year), and to light fireworks (to celebrate and ward off evil spirits).
For foreigners working in China who do not have families to visit, the Spring Festival means a month-long vacation. Many take the time to travel, and that is exactly what I've been doing. I left Baoding on Jan. 18 at 11 p.m. with my friend and coworker Natty. We took a train south, a journey that lasted 30 hours. We had bunks to sleep in and brought plenty of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.
When we arrived in Chengdu, Sichuan Province, it was almost 6 a.m. We spent two days in Chengdu before moving on to Kunming, 18 hours away by train. In Kunming we stayed at a youth hostel near the Jing Ma (Golden Horse) Arches, in the center of town.
It was here that I woke up over 24 hours ago, startled by loud emotional voices erupting in a sudden argument outside my door. As I lay in bed festering about being awake at 6 a.m. on my vacation, I noticed that the voices were speaking English, but with foreign accents. After the argument seemed to be over, I got out of bed and watch the morning arrive from the balcony of our hostel. It was a beautiful morning, and I sat there writing and chatting with a few other travelers nearby for a little while. At the hostel, I met many people from all over the world. Some from Germany, France, Bangladesh, and even one from Worcester, Mass.
And, as I was speaking to all these different people, I discovered that they all had two very distinct things in common.
First, they all possess an intrepid spirit; they wouldn't traveling in China without one. It takes a sense of adventure and an immense amount of patience to deal with the transportation system and the millions of other travelers one encounters along the way.
The second thing they all have in common is that they all speak English. English seems to be the common language because nearly everybody in the world, but especially in Europe and China, people study English from a young age. Whenever travelers encounter each other or need to ask the hotel staff something, communication is almost exclusively done in English.
Yesterday, after I arrived in Jinghong, I was wandering a main street looking for a place to stay when I spotted a foreigner porting a heavy pack walking in the same direction. Before I could even say hello, she crossed the street and asked me, in French-accented English, “Are you looking for the Dai Youth Hostel?” I laughed and said, “You're lost too? Yeah I'm looking for any hostel. Are you French?” She nodded and asked, “Yes, how could you tell?” It was her French guidebook that gave her away.
We both arrived in Jinghong that morning on separate sleeper buses (the kind with three columns of five foot beds, just short enough to not sleep in), and we were both looking for a place to crash. Neither of us speaks much Chinese, so we had to rely on what little we knew to go from place to another in search of a pair of beds. It was not very difficult, as most places have some English-speaking staff. While Julie, the French girl, speaks four languages, it was English and a little Chinese that found us a place to stay. She tells me that she has yet to come into any problems traveling in China, but her knowledge of English is indispensable to her experience. Armed with this, she can speak to nearly every traveler she meets and can always find her way around any Chinese city.
I think countries around the world have the right idea in teaching children a second or third language. America should do the same. I think it would help bridge the growing cultural and ideological gap between the United States and the rest of the world. That said, I think I need to get out of this stuffy room and go bridge some gaps myself.

Chris Gauthier is a recent Massachusetts College of Liberal Arts graduate who is spending a year in China teaching English at Hebei University. He is writing regular columns for The Advocate during his stay in China. To read all of his Advocate columns, visit blogtheberkshires.com. Readers can also read more about his experiences on his own blog at chrisinchina.wordpress.com.