By Andrew Roiter, Special to Berkshires Week

PITTSFIELD -- Baba Louie's Wood-Fired All-Natural Sourdough Pizza has opened a new location at 34 Depot St. And they're offering quality pizza in a way that I've never seen before.

Paul Masiero and his wife, Irene, bought Baba Louie's more than a decade ago and opened the Hudson and Great Barrington stores during that period.

"I was in the restaurant business for a very long time," he said, "I was tired of working for people, I wanted to get out of the business, but when [the opportunity to buy Baba Louie's] came up I thought I'd give it another shot, and it's been working so far."

The Queen comes with just cheese but can be topped with any of 13 regular toppings for $1 extra or any of the 25 specialty toppings for $1.50. Toppings range from the expected, such as pepperoni and mushrooms, to the unexpected, such as tofu and dried figs.

"You can get any toppings you want on anything you want. There are no problems with substitutions," Masiero said.

But if you don't feel like building your own pizza, then the chefs at Baba Louie's have a few specialties they can whip up -- the Dirty Brutto, a pesto pizza topped with roasted red potatoes, roasted garlic, parmesan and basil, or the Dolce Vita, which is tomato sauce, wilted spinach, fresh mozzarella, California figs, gorgonzola, prosciutto and parmesan topped with infused rosemary oil.
One other aspect of Baba Louie's that makes it unique is its vegan and gluten-free options. Any pizza can be made with soy mozzarella and on gluten-free crust.

"[Veganism and gluten] are a major concern these days. And we're trying to stay ahead of the curve," Masiero said.

The drinks are a big part of Baba Louie's as well. The sodas are all-natural, and several BBC beers are available on tap.

"We want to support small, local companies," he said. "That's why we don't offer Coke or Pepsi, or Budweiser."

The atmosphere is very ristorante Italiano, with dim lighting and gorgeous artwork adorning the walls. But the servers are friendly and down-to-earth, as you'd expect from a small place. Masiero stressed that friendliness was very important to him and that he tries to make sure all of his staff are courteous and friendly.

Masiero's philosophy for Baba Louie's can be best expressed by the way he treats his cheese.

"Our cheese is fresh that's made every week. It costs quite a bit more, but it's worth it. Processed cheese has a lot of additives that come out in the taste and texture and look. That cheese has kind of sheen to it. It's just not natural. I could get these ingredients at a third of the price, but you'd taste the difference," he said. "There's a lesson I learned in the culinary academy: Keep it simple, stupid. It was a $30,000 lesson, but it was the best one I had."

If you go ...

What: Baba Louie's Wood-Fired Organic Sourdough Pizza

Where: 34 Depot St., Pittsfield

Hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., Thursday to Tuesday; closed Wednesday

Accessible: Street-level entrance

Price range: $10 and $18; specialty pizzas $11.95 for a small and $16.95 for a large.

Rating: 5 chef's hats out of 5

Information: Babalouiespizza.com, (413) 449-2400

Chef Hat Rating

(an explanation of the system)

1: Avoid

2: Decent food, but some problems

3: Good food: no reason to stay away

4: Worth repeat visits

5: Take your visiting friends here
to impress them

DRIED FRUIT & POPCORN BARS

Start to Finish:

1 hour (10 minutes active)

Servings: 9

1/2 cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon water

1/2 stick unsalted butter, melted

2 cups dried apricots, cherries and cranberries, roughly chopped

8 cups popped popcorn, warm

In a small saucepan, heat the sugar and water to 230 F. Transfer to a small bowl, then whisk in the butter. Add the dried fruit and toss well.

Place the popcorn in a large bowl, then pour the butter-fruit mixture over it, tossing gently to coat and combine.

Press the mixture firmly into a 9-by-9-inch pan. Let sit for 45 minutes. Cut into 9 bars.

Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 193 calories; 48 calories from fat; 5 g fat (3 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 14 mg cholesterol; 36 g carbohydrate; 2 g protein; 3 g fiber; 1 mg sodium.

Baseball barbecue
By Judith Lerner, Special to the Eagle
PITTSFIELD

Wahconah Park may be old-fashioned with its wooden grandstand and field of real grass, (no Astroturf here), but like ballparks all over the country it is expanding its food offerings beyond popcorn, peanuts, hot dogs and beer.

Last Thursday night brought another first: a wine tasting in the hospitality tent. Jim Nejaime, owner, and Lisa Martin, food manager and cheese buyer of Nejaime's Wine Cellars on Holmes Road were still setting up as I arrived near 6 p.m. with a friend.
We sat and watched the Pittsfield Colonials warming up before the game, separated from them only a wire net fence.

By 5:45 Rebecca Shrack and her food-service staff already had the grills fired. Wings, chicken quarters and racks of ribs went on to char as diners lined up to order. It was simple fare, but upscale for a ballpark.

Five beers were available on draft at $4 for a 16-ounce glass. Red and white wines are also sold.

Roller told us that when the season started, each of the two beer concessions near the entrance to the grandstand sold $500 compared to the Beer Gardens' $100 a night.

While revenues at the front concessions have remained steady, he said, sales at the Beer Gardens have risen more than five times, though they draw just 20 percent of those attending the games.
In the hospitality tent, fans waited for Nejaime to pour a glass (or half glass of any two) of Hugo Gruner Veltliner Austrian Reisling (white) or Casa del Vino Cortese 2009 Italian Piedmontese (also white) or California reds, Longball Cellars Ellsbury Zinfandel and Leese-Fitch Cabernet Sauvignon.

Included in the tasting was a plate of Belletoile French triple créme brie, Montgomery English cheddar, Parrano Dutch gouda, Urgelia from Spain's Pyrenees and sweet sopressata soft Italianstyle salami with lavash crackers and crudités.

We each took a cheese plate. My friend, who is Italian by heritage, sampled the whites, but preferred the Riesling, with its slight effervescence over the Piedmontese.

I tried dribs, half-inches, of all four wines. I also preferred the crisp, flavorful Riesling to the Cortese but, while the Cabernet Sauvignon was richer, fuller and creamier than the Red Zinfandel, I enjoyed both the reds as the Zinfandel was a perfect summer dining wine, smooth, light and dry.

Over the course of the evening, about 75 fans tried the wine and cheese at $5 a tasting.

"A few people came back multiple times," Lisa Martin said.

Nejaime said he expects to host more wine and cheese tastings next year. Both he and Roller, are friends of Colonials owner Buddy Lewis, who lives in Boston and has a home in Richmond.

Roller, the man behind the food, is busy.

Daily, he oversees breakfast and lunch at Samel's Deli, his main kitchen on Elm Street. He prepares and serves food for the Village Harvest Café as well as for all the special events at Hancock Shaker Village through his Savory Harvest Catering. He also maintains the café at the Medical Arts building on North Street.

And in his free time he caters weddings and galas and all sorts of special events including the ball games at Wahconah Park.

" Buddy Lewis and his wife, Nanette, were the first couple that asked me to do high- end catering after I bought Samel's," Roller said.

"Buddy asked if I would be willing to do VIP catering at the hospitality tent. There are no kitchen facilities at the ballpark," he explained.

"I asked who was doing the concessions and Buddy said, 'I'll find somebody.' " "I thought it would be important for him to have good food. There are a lot of people in town but Buddy doesn't know many of them. So I said, 'Why don't I help you out?'" "I like Buddy and he is a longtime friend and I like baseball so I thought it would be a good fit."

That night, Roller brought two plates to a picnic table for us to sample. In one, a substantial bun cradled a long Italian sausage with crackling skin and a tender juicy interior. It was garnished with grilled green peppers and onions.

The other was laden with barbecued ribs and a chicken breast with sides of Samel's- made Caesar rotini pasta salads.

We divided the sausage and, clearly, both liked it enough to devour it and its garnishes totally. While my friend, who eats more quickly than I do, said he found the ribs a bit dry, he did cut off both large, meaty ends and leave no traces on his plate.

I liked the ribs a lot. The texture was good-chewy; not stringy, not fatty. The sauce was mild and could have been more garlicky or vinegary or something.

I asked for a chicken breast - lightly grilled - instead of dark meat with a little trepidation. White meat is so easily overcooked and therefore often is dry. The meat was smoky and fresh in itself with only a minimum of sweet and not at all spicy sauce. But it was fairly dry, even in the center.

Roller sat and talked of his hopes for bringing more interesting and varied food to the park.

" I'd consider doing lobster nights or sushi if people want it, but I'd have to have bigger attendance," he said. Anyone who buys a ticket for the game can come into the Beer Gardens for the barbecue, teriyaki or Buffalo grilled wings flavored to order; the platters of full or half racks of ribs; or white or dark chicken quarter; or a combination of the two with Caesar salad and pasta or potato salad.

"If 200 people buy food I break even. At 100 I lose money. I'd love to see 1,000 a night. The goal is 2,000 a night which is the league average," Roller said.

Only 200 or 300 people were in the stands and at the tables that night.

"Pittsfield is missing the boat on this," he said. "You can come, get a good dinner, a fairly priced nice dinner with a nice staff where everyone is very pleasant, very helpful."

There is still time to catch the last games this season from next Monday through Labor Day weekend: And the ribs and the chicken and the draft beers. And the feeling of reliving the past in the sweetest way.

Team general manager Greg Martin promotes Pittsfield's and Wahconah's early connection to baseball. The Colonial players wear turn- of- the- 20th- century uniforms: knickers and lacedfront shirts at home; knickers and button shirts with collars on the road.

Martin himself designed the uniforms and them made in his own factory which specializes in throwback baseball sporting goods. He is very enthusiastic about the retro quality of baseball at Wahconah Park.

Next year, Roller has some fun food ideas.

"If there is a good crowd," he said, "I want to do an island of old fashioned sweets and treats. I have the kiosk. I know where there is one. I just have to go get it. I would make cotton candy, sno- cones, popcorn, caramel corn, kettle corn and soft pretzels."

He has a little Field of Dreams look after he says this.

Then he reminded me that the Colonials are still in the running for the playoffs, so games - and barbecue - may go on well into September.

CHICKEN SALAD

WITH CAESAR DRESSING

Start to finish: 1 hour 20 minutes

(35 minutes active)

For the dressing:

1 large head garlic

1/4 cup nonfat plain yogurt

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 anchovy fillets, rinsed

Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

For the salad:

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts trimmed of fat

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Ground black pepper, to taste

8 cups washed, dried and torn romaine lettuce

1 cup fat-free croutons

Shredded Parmesan cheese, for garnish (optional)

Lemon wedges

Heat the oven to 400 F.

To make the dressing, on a cutting board, using a sharp knife, slice about 1/2-inch off the top of each head of garlic, exposing the individual cloves. Set each head on a square of foil and sprinkle with a tablespoon of water. Pinch together the edges of the foil to create a packet. Roast for 45 minutes. Unwrap and let cool slightly before squeezing the pulp from the cloves.

In the bowl of a food processor or blender, combine the roasted garlic pulp, yogurt, cheese, oil, lemon juice, vinegar, mustard and anchovies. Process until smooth. Season with salt and pepper, then cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

To make the salad, heat a gas grill to medium-high or light a charcoal fire.

Rub the chicken with oil and season with salt. Coat the outsides heavily with pepper. Grill the chicken until browned and a thermometer reads 165 F at the center.

In a large bowl, combine the lettuce and croutons. Toss with 1/2 cup of the dressing, then divide among 4 plates. Cut the chicken into 1/2-inch slices and arrange over the salad. Garnish with shredded Parmesan cheese, if desired. Serve immediately, with lemon wedges.

Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 257 calories; 77 calories from fat; 9 g fat (2 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 73 mg cholesterol; 11 g carbohydrate; 33 g protein; 2 g fiber; 519 mg sodium.

Adams

Adams Farmers' Market

Fridays, noon to 6 p.m.

60 Columbia St. on Route 8.

Open to Oct. 22 Information: (413) 743-5613

Great Barrington

Great Barrington Farmers' Market

Saturdays, 9 am. to 1 p.m.

Historic Train Station in downtown Great Barrington, 670 S. Egremont Road, behind Town Hall Open to Oct. 30.

Information: (413) 528-8950, rosemarylevine@yahoo.com A-Z Farmers' Market

Wednesdays, 3-6 pm.

94 West Ave., Great Barrington, at the Nutrition Center Open June 2 to Sept. 29 Information: (413) 429-8110

Lanesborough

Berkshire Farmers Market

Wednesdays and Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Berkshire Mall parking lot, Lanesborough Open to Oct. 28 Information: (413) 569-3663

Lenox

Lenox Farmers' Market

Fridays, noon to 4 p.m. Triangular Park, Main St., Lenox Open to Oct. 8 Information: (413) 528-8950

North Adams

North Adams Farmers' Market

Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.

Municipal parking lot on St. Anthony Drive between Marshall Street and Holden Street Open to Oct. 30 Information: Rod Bunt or Joe Bettis, (413) 664-6180, jbettisjr@verizon.net

Norfolk, Conn.

Norfolk Farmers' Market

Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Route 44 and Shepard Road Open Oct. 30 Information: Lisa Auclair and Joel Howard, (860) 542-5153, lisaauclair@sbcglobal.net

Otis

Farmers' Market of Otis

Saturdays, 9 am. to 1 p.m.

2000 East Otis Road, in the parking lot of Papa's Healthy Food and Fuel Open through October Information: (413) 269-9931, otisfarmersmarket@yahoo.com
Pittsfield

Berkshire Harmony Gardeners Exchange and Farmers Market

Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Palace Park, North Street Open mid-June through early November Information: (413) 281-4114, barry@berkshireharmony.com, www.berkshireharmony.com Harvest Market

Fridays, 3 to 7 p.m.

North Street, Pittsfield, by Senior Center Open mid-June through early November Information: (413) 281-4114, barry@berkshireharmony.com, www.berkshireharmony.com Park Square Farmers' Market

Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Prk Square, Pittsfield Open through early November Information: (413) 281-4114, barry@berkshireharmony.com, www.berkshireharmony.com

Sheffield

Farmers' Market of Sheffield

Fridays, 3:30 to 6:30 p.m.

Route 7, Main Street, Sheffield, in the Old Parish Church parking lot.

Open to Oct. 8 Information: (413) 644-8971, billie@crazywifefarm.com, www.thesheffieldfarmersmarket.com

Williamstown

Williamstown Farmers' Market

Saturdays, 8 a.m. to noon South end of Spring Street Open through late October Information: (413) 458-3365, guzziam@yahoo.com Information from Berkshire Grown (413) 528-0041 www.berkshiregrown.org

Ellsworth Hill Orchard and Berry Farm: Cornwall Bridge Road (Route 4), Sharon, Conn.

Farmstand open daily, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., for pick-your-own or pre-picked fruit grown by the integrated pest management system. Both yellow and whitefleshed peaches, including donut peaches through early September; berries and other fruits including Ellsworth's own figs and fig trees.

Michael Bozzi, farmer/owner. (860) 364-0025, www.ellsworthfarm.com.

Farmer Don: 120 Housatonic St., Lenox Farmstand open daily, 9 a.m. to dark.

Peaches from Yonder Fruit Farm and Mead Orchards in New York state; other produce, both Farmer Don-grown and local. Donald Rawson, farmer/owner. (413) 637-2817.

Jaeschke's Fruit & Flower Center:

736 Crane Ave., Pittsfield Store open daily 9 to 5; until 7, Thanksgiving through Christmas.

Peaches, plums, apples, pears, berries, vegetables, cider store; also sells fruits and vegetables, cider, housemade pies, jellies, jams, etc.

Rhetta Jaeschke, owner, and Charles Wandrei, farmer. (413) 443-7180.

Jaeschke's Apple Orchard: West Road, Adams Barn open daily, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., from Labor Day until Christmas; Monday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday until Valentine's Day. And at local farmers markets. (413) 743-3896.

Lakeview Orchards: 94 Old Cheshire Road, Lanesborough Store and farm open daily, 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., July through October.

Peach varieties available through October; also, other stone fruits, apples, berries, vegetables, honey, preserves, housemade baked goods and cider at Berkshire Farmers Market, Berkshire Mall, Lanesborough, on Saturdays. Judy and David Jurczak, owners. (413) 448-6009, www.lakevieworchard. com.

LoveApple Farm: 1421 State Route 9H, Ghent, N.Y.

Stand and farm open daily, from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., for pick-your-own and prepicked; call for availability. Peaches and other fruits and berries, homemade pies, preserves and ice cream at farmstand. Chris and Randae Loken, farmers/owners. (518) 828-5048, loveapplefarm@fairpoint.net, www.loveapplefarm.com.

Mead Orchards LLC: 15 Freeborn Lane, Tivoli, N.Y.

Call for hours and availability. Pick-yourown peaches and blueberries; other produce at farmstand. Chuck Mead farmer/owner. (845) 756-5641 or (845) 389-0731, meadorchards@yahoo.com, www.meachorchards. com.

Samascott Orchards: 5 Sunset Ave., Kinderhook, N.Y.

Store open daily, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., late June through October. Peaches at farm store; also, many other fruits and vegetables, including autumn strawberries, apples, baked goods, applesauce, cider, at Lenox farmers market, Fridays 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. Ron and Gary Samascott, owners. (518) 758-7224, www.samscott.com.

Yonder Fruit Farms Inc.: 37 Maple Lane, at corner of Union Turnpike (New York Route 66), Valatie, N.Y.

Farmstand; call ahead for availability.

Peaches and other produce. Also sold at Farmer Don's farmstand in Lenox.

(518) 758-7011

Jack cheeseburger, griddled and grilled
By J.M. Hirsch, AP Food Editor

Wednesday July 28, 2010
When crafting a great burger, check the weather.

So goes the advice of Adam Perry Lang, owner of New York's Daisy May's BBQ USA restaurant, a classic rib shack known for its whole pig, pulled pork and beef ribs.

"Sometimes I love a burger that is rich in fat -- 70-30 blend of protein to fat," he said in an e-mail. "I like these on colder days when I need fat and heartiness. In the summertime, a leaner burger is appreciated. 90-10 can do the trick."

Whatever your blend, cook with care. He aims to create a moist, tender interior and a well-developed caramelized crust. He also favors a liberal amount of salt.

"I am a burger fanatic," he said. "My most memorable has to be the one I would get when I was 8 years old spending our summers on the beach in Montauk. This was in front of Gurneys Inn. They called it the Gurney Burger and it was served on an English muffin. I have had others, but that was a burger memory."

Perry Lang offered up a basic burger -- nearly a half-pounder -- topped with caramelized onions spiked with chipotle chilies and Monterey Jack cheese.

MONTEREY JACK

CHEESE BURGERS

WITH SPICY CHIPOTLE

Start to Finish: 30 minutes

Servings: 6

2 1/2 pounds ground beef (80 percent lean)

1/4 cup cold water

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

1 1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper, divided

1 tablespoon canola oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter or olive oil

6 small to medium sweet white onions, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons pureed chipotle in adobo

4 tablespoons thinly sliced scallions

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons flat-leaf fresh parsley leaves

6 slices Monterey Jack cheese

6 hamburger buns

In a large bowl, mix together the beef and water. Shape into 6 patties, about 1 inch thick.

In a small bowl, mix together 1 teaspoon each of the salt and pepper. Use the blend to season the burgers, pressing it into the meat.

Heat a grill to medium-high.

Set a griddle pan on the grill and add half of the butter or oil. When the pan is hot, add the onions, season with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon each of salt and pepper and saute until the onions soften and start to brown. Add the pureed chipotle, scallions and cilantro.

Push the onions to one side of the griddle. Heat the remaining butter or oil on the empty side and place the hamburgers on it. Cook for 2 minutes, then flip and cook for another 2 minutes.

Move the burgers to the grill and cook to desired doneness, flipping halfway through (2 minutes per side for medium-rare).

Stir the parsley into the onions and spoon the onions onto the hamburgers. Lay a slice of cheese on top of each and continue cooking until it melts.

Place a burger in each bun and serve.

Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 768 calories; 476 calories from fat; 53 g fat (21 g saturated; 2 g trans fats); 164 mg cholesterol; 29 g carbohydrate; 42 g protein; 3 g fiber; 998 mg sodium.

In good taste: restaurant review

PITTSFIELD -- Mission Bar and Tapas wants your business, at night, and now by day.

Last month, the once dinner-only Spanish-American fusion restaurant and bar debuted a 7-day-a-week lunch menu and Sunday brunch.

Mission turned two in June, and James Burden's first anniversary as full-time chef will come in August. Meanwhile, the restaurant continues to cook up new ideas.

"We have a nice dinner menu and a pretty good tapas menu established. But I would have two tremendous sous chefs in the kitchen doing prep work all day, and the place was empty. So we decided to open it up," said Burden.

A New England native, Burden cut his teeth in the kitchen while
Bartender, Laura Brower, prepares the linen for the day at Mission Bar + Tapas on North Street in Pittsfield. Pittsfield, 7-3-10 - Ian Grey (Ian Grey)
serving in the U.S. Coast Guard. He's since worked in all sorts of food service spots, from delis to taverns, but owner Jim Benson hand-picked him for Mission last summer.

By night, the burgundy-walled dining room is lit by tea light candles and filled with the din of patrons and, quite often, live music.

But by day, the 1,600-square-foot Mission takes on a lighter tone.

"You walk in, and the sun is coming through the skylight. Things are brighter. It almost feels like a different space," Burden said.

Night or day, diners now have multiple seating options, from the cluster of sidewalk café tables to low, intimate tables, one of the long high-top bar tables, or right at the copper-topped bar.

Monday afternoon, I met my co-diner inside at the bar, which is brightened by a large glass cylindrical vase filled with a dozen hearty sunflowers set at the center.

New manager Caitlin Harrison was behind the bar and promptly offered us lunch and tapas menus and also drinks.

Though there is an ample selection of craft beers and Spanish wines, we went with sodas: a Boylan's natural black cherry and a Virgil's root beer. Both ($2 each) came in trendy bottles alongside glasses filled with ice cubes.

The lunch menu has nine solid offerings, from a $5 sopa del día (soup of the day) to a roasted cod and field greens for $11.

"The food may take a little more time to prepare, but it's still meant for fast pick-ups and for people who need to be in and out and back to work. It's about high-speed and quality," said Chef Burden. "Cold cut sandwiches are great, but I'm bored of them. With this menu, I wanted to provide something a little more."

The tapas menu has a few dozen "small plate" items, from French fries to my personal favorite, bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with blue cheese. Various salads and other ample fare can also be found on this menu.

We decided to mix and match, starting with a baker's half-dozen of Mission-style wings ($8) and the goat cheese salad ($9) from the tapas menu. Though I was tempted by a beef brisket sandwich ($10), I went with the roasted tomato polenta ($8) from the new lunch menu.

Everything came out in a timely fashion, well-presented on shapely white plates.

The wings were piping hot, slightly crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. They came arranged around a pile of celery sticks and a small pot of cool chunky blue cheese sauce. The sauce had a Buffalo-like tang but with a bit of a honey sweetness. The only things missing were hand towelettes.

The salad came with a baked goat cheese on top, which my friend said was good.

The polenta was a perfect portion topped with four hearty spears of roasted asparagus and melted manchego cheese. I really liked the concept, and generally liked the dish, though the tomatoes were a little bland. The balsamic reduction drizzled around the plate stepped it up nicely.

We both felt full but not heavy after our meals. Then our server offered desserts. There were Spanish favorites like churros and flan. But the tres leches (three milk) cake ($6), was the winner through-and-through.

This is more like a custard than a cake. It's soaked in creamy syrup and involves sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk and heavy cream. This slice came garnished with real whipped cream, sliced strawberries and sugar-encrusted grapes. Qué rico!

Despite the prompt service, we lingered over our food and conversation between ourselves and the waitstaff for an hour and a half.

I'm looking forward to coming back to try what is said to be an equally laid-back brunch.

If you go, Sunday's menu includes brunch standards with a twist. You can get homemade granola and yogurt, omelets, French toast and eggs Benedict. But you can also get beef brisket hash and signature cocktails like a Mission Cava cocktail (a sparkling white Cava wine with fresh mint and lime juice) or a Brass Ribbon (orange juice cocktailed with Pabst Blue Ribbon beer).

"It's casual," said Chef Burden. "We have a really cool dining room for brunch and lunch service that kind of brings that community feeling back."

If you go ...

What: Lunch and brunch at Mission Bar and Tapas

Where: 438 North St., Pittsfield.

Hours: Tapas daily from noon to midnight; Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.; daily lunch from noon to 4 p.m.

Accessible: Handicapped accessible

On the menu: Brunch ranges from chocolate croissant ($3) to three-cheese omelets ($7) to crab cake Benedict ($10), with cocktails, fruit juices and French press coffee available. Lunch includes classics like grilled cheese ($6) and fish and chips ($12) to charred Caesar salad ($11 with choice of chicken, beef or salmon) or beef brisket sandwich ($10)

Seating: The restaurant has a capacity to seat 49 people inside, plus 12 seats outside.

Rating: Four out of five chef hats

Credit cards: All major

Information: www.missionbarandta
pas.com; also on Facebook, MySpace and Twitter

Eggplant rolls make a summer supper
By Jim Romanoff, Associated Press

Light, in- season and makeahead - it's the trifecta for the perfect summer supper.

For this easy- to- prepare dish, thin slices of eggplant are baked until tender, then fashioned into rolls stuffed with delicately spiced couscous and tangy feta cheese.

The rolls can be prepared up to two days in advance, covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated. When ready to serve, remove the plastic, drizzle with marinara sauce and bake.

ORANGE-SCENTED EGGPLANT & COUSCOUS ROLLS Start to finish: 1 hour 10 minutes (30 minutes active) Servings: 4 1 large eggplant (about 1 pound) 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 2 oranges 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 1 cup water 3/4 cup couscous 2 cups crumbled feta cheese, divided 4 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley, divided Ground black pepper, to taste 1 cup prepared marinara sauce Heat the oven to 425 F. Coat 2 baking sheets with cooking spray.

Trim both ends of the eggplants. Standing one eggplant on end, slice it lengthwise into 1/3-inchthick slices. Discard the end slices of skin. Repeat with the second eggplant.

Arrange the slices on the prepared baking sheets and brush with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Bake until lightly browned on the undersides, about 10 minutes. Turn the slices over and continue baking until the second sides are lightly browned and the flesh is tender, about 10 to 15 minutes longer.

Meanwhile, to make the
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filling, grate the zest of a half an orange, then juice both oranges. Transfer the zest and juice to a medium saucepan. Add the cinnamon, cardamom, the apple cider vinegar, the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and the water. Bring to a boil. Stir in couscous and remove the pan from the heat. Cover and let stand until the liquid is absorbed, about 5 minutes.

Uncover the couscous and fluff with a fork, then let cool. Stir in 1 1/2 cups of the feta and 3 tablespoons of the parsley. Season with pepper.

Coat a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with cooking spray. Place about 1/4 cup of the couscous mixture at one end of each eggplant slice. Pressing with your fingers to compact the filling, roll up each slice and transfer them, seam- side down, to the prepared dish.

In a small saucepan, heat the marinara sauce until warm. Drizzle the marinara sauce over the rolls. Cover the dish tightly with foil and bake until the rolls are heated through and the sauce is bubbling, about 15 minutes. Sprinkle with the remaining feta and parsley

Veggies keep lean burgers flavorful
By Jim Romanoff, Associated Press

Serve these burgers with a side of sweet potato fries and a few crunchy pickle spears.

STOUT & ONION TURKEY BURGER

Start to finish: 1 hour

(35 minutes active)

Servings: 4

1 teaspoon canola oil

1 cup chopped Vidalia onion

1 cup Guinness or other stout

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 pound 93 percent lean ground turkey

1 cup panko (Japanese-style) breadcrumbs

1/3 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese (optional)

4 whole-wheat hamburger buns or other small wheat bread

In a medium saucepan over medium, heat the oil. Add the onions and saute until softened and slightly golden, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the stout and increase heat to high. Boil the mixture until reduced by two-thirds and making syrupy bubbles, about 20 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl to cool for 20 minutes.

Heat a gas grill to medium-high or prepare a charcoal fire.

Add the mustard, thyme, salt and pepper to the onion mixture. Add the ground turkey and breadcrumbs. Gently but thoroughly combine. Shape into 4 patties, about 3/4-inch thick.

To oil the grill grates, wet a folded paper towel with oil, hold it with tongs and rub it over the grates.

Grill the burgers until well browned on the underside, 4 to 5 minutes. With a spatula, turn the burgers carefully. Grill 4 to 6 minutes more, or until the burger registers 165 F at the center. Top with cheese, if using, during the last minute of grilling. Meanwhile, toast the buns at the edge of the grill. Serve the burgers on the toasted buns.

Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 468 calories; 131 calories from fat; 15 g fat (5 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 73 mg cholesterol; 49 g carbohydrate; 32 g protein; 5 g fiber; 966 mg sodium.

Mezze: The same class in a new place
By Clarence Fanto, Special to Berkshires Week

Wednesday June 30, 2010
WILLIAMSTOWN -- The imposing mansion that looms above Cold Spring Road (Route 7) is the new home of Mezze Bistro & Bar, co-owned by Nancy Thomas and Bo Peabody, who started it on Water Street in 1996.

They relocated up Water Street after fire consumed the original location in 2001, and it became a favored dining spot, bar and gathering place for the Williams College community as well as other local residents and visitors.

Mezze -- an Arabic word describing the sharing of small-dish appetizers, similar to a tapas menu -- is newly ensconced in a historic site adjoining Sheep Hill Farm that has hosted three restaurants over the past 60 years: the Elwal Pines, Le Jardin and (briefly) Jae's Inn.

Thomas' goal was to house the expanding restaurant and catering business in one place that would be owned rather than leased. She cast the winning bid ($575,000) when the vacant restaurant was auctioned after Jae's closed; she said she spent an additional $150,000 on required environmental improvements to address drainage issues as well as major landscaping and interior renovations before opening to the public on June 7.

"We have respect for the past," Thomas emphasized. "The building is classic New England architecture, Cape-shingle style with light and dark gray exterior. We've added a burst of color and a contemporary interior, so when people walk in, it's perceived as our home and guests see how we've adapted into the space."

Stopping by for an early dinner on a mid-June weekday evening, we were greeted by a polite young man in a golf cart offering to ferry us up the hill from the parking lot -- a nice touch. The pond, reflecting the site's early origins as a 19th-century working farm, has been cleaned up; the gazebo survives along with "edible landscape designs" that include a native stone pathway with an arbor of various berries, grapes and hardy kiwi.

The cluttered Asian bric-a-brac of Jae's has been replaced by a light, airy, open look; a wood-paneled bar from the Mezze Restaurant Group's Allium in Great Barrington adjoins a large picture window with a view of Sheep Hill.

Thomas emphasizes sustainable food from local purveyors, as well as what she calls a "convivial spirit, casual dining and an accessible, inviting atmosphere."

A veteran of six renovations, she believes in "adaptive reuse and repurposing," she said; the 1960s dining room chairs were salvaged from the former Taconic Restaurant.

The menu prepared by Japanese-American chef Joji Sumi again combines his farm-to-table dedication with French and Asian culinary influences. The choices reflect seasonal availability of local produce, meats, fish and vegetables.

The fresh, crusty sourdough bread is from Berkshire Mountain Bakery in Housatonic, and the mozzarella salad with tomato chutney we shared ($10) is supplied by Maple Brook Farm.

We shared the night's fish special, a generous cut of salmon ($28) with an array of turnips and other greens from Mighty Food Farm in nearby Pownal, Vt., and a nightly entree, roasted Amish chicken ($23) with potato puree, sautéed greens and morel sauce. The fish (supplied by a local fishmonger called Pesca) was tender, flaky and flavorful, and the bed of greens was a perfect complement for a low-carb dinner.

The chicken was juicy and exquisitely turned out in the morel sauce.

Among the outstanding desserts, the strawberry and rhubarb crisp with vanilla gelato, freshly baked deep-dish style, easily serves two. Dieters, beware!

Service is impeccable and efficient, even with a nearly full dining room.

"We like to build up spaces that have character," Thomas asserted, "not polished in a way I'd call soulless, but young, fresh and exciting for a contemporary lifestyle."

After the busy summer season, she said, she hopes to entice local folks with casual, affordable dinners as well as wine and beer events with the goal of preventing cabin fever and encouraging people to socialize.

Thomas is still on the fence about the five upstairs inn rooms; so far, there are no plans to reopen them for overnight guests.

Mezze is a close relative of Allium, she acknowledged, "in our commitment to farmers, with a difference in the crafting of the food."

Her new location is now re-established as an inviting, top-shelf destination for casual get-togethers as well as very fine dining.

If you go ...

What: Mezze Bistro & Bar

Where: 777 Cold Spring Road (Route 7), Williamstown.

Summer hours: Tuesday to Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m.; Sunday and Monday, 5 to 9 p.m. Bar open most evenings until 1 a.m.

Accessible: Handicapped accessible.

On the menu: Appetizers include an American charcuterie plate ($10) and smoked pork belly with a 90-minute bantam egg ($12). House gnocchi, several simple salads with local ingredients and a dish of roasted beets complete the lineup of starters. Other seafood, meat and vegetarian entrees are described in detail at www.mezzerestaurant.com. There's an ample wine, beer and cocktail selection, and sparkling Saratoga bottled water is available.

Seating: The new Mezze seats 100 diners, the same as the previous location on Water Street.

Rating: Four out of five chefs hats.

Information: (413) 458-0123 or online at www.mezzerestaurant.com or www.opentable.com.