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October 31, 2006

Turned Away: Time is Running Out

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Onor's story is an excellent introduction to the plight of street children in Haiti - a microcosm of life here. Onor was orphaned at a young age, both his parents died and he was left in the care of his uncle. His uncle's new girlfriend didn't like him in the house and gave his uncle an ultimatum: It's either the kid or me. His uncle chose the latter and kicked him onto the street. With nowhere else to go, he joined the legions of thousands of street kids in Haiti's capital, Port-au-Prince.

We find fourteen year-old Onor near a park in Petion-ville, his usual stomping grounds. Street kids have a beat and stick to it. It is where they work and are most comfortable. He is gambling what little money he has for food with other street kids.

Another street kid pulls Onor's fake velour shirt sleeve up. The bone on his right arm is sticking out. He has a badly infected compound fracture. He tells us he doesn't know how it happened. In reality, he knows what happened but is unwilling to tell us. More than likely, he was beaten up by someone much older than he for nothing other than the fact that he is a street kid.

Onor's bone has been sticking out of his arm for more than two weeks. He has not seen medical attention. The infection is beginning to take over more and more of his arm. He is becoming sicker and has developed a cough.

Onor will die in a week if the infection is not taken care of and his broken arm set back into place and mended.

We find Onor the next day sleeping in a ravine because he has gotten sicker. Piles of trash fifteen feet tall rot in the ravine. Pigs bigger than Onor take refuge from the scorching sun in the trash and disease infested water that flows slowly down hill. Ono feels safe sleeping here.

We seek help for Onor but are turned back at every hospital and clinic we go to. Medecins Sans Frontieres (MSF) will not take him, nor will any other place we try.

He is a street kid: The lowest of the low in Haiti. We cannot take him to l'Hopital Generale in downtown Port-au-Prince because they will either cut his arm off or superficially 'heal' his wound: Their preferred method of treatment is wrapping a layer of gauze soaked with strong antibiotics over the wound, neglecting to set the bone and then putting a cast on over the compound fracture. The 'treatment' will eventually kill him but it is the cheapest and easiest way.

It is out of the question financially to take Onor to a clinic that will treat him. It will cost roughly $50 USD to save his life.

Three options remain for Onor: Money can be provided for Onor's treatment at a medical clinic. His arm can either be amputated or 'healed' - in which case he will better of dead as a cripple street kid or will die a slow and agonizing death. Or, Onors infection will kill the bone marrow, his arm will die and he will go into septic shock and die a slow and agonizing death.

Onor's case isn't rare. In fact, it happens often here.

To help Onor, send an email to this address: HaitianStreetKids@rescueteam.com

To learn more: http://haitianstreetkids.com/

October 22, 2006

Five Dead as Violence Escalates in Cite Soleil

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Violence erupted in Haiti's largest and most volatile slum, Cité Soleil, on Thursday, October 19th and has continued to escalate into the weekend. Residents threw rocks and glass bottles at United Nations soldiers protesting the alleged destruction of homes by U.N. peacekeepers. Residents insist that three civilians were killed in the ensuing gun battle. Violence of this level has not been seen in Cité Soleil in over two months. Since Thursday, five civilians have been killed and many more have been wounded residents say.

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The fire fight broke out on Thursday as Brazilian U.N. engineers were demolishing the remains of an old wall and several uninhabited structures in order to open the narrow road to traffic. The AP quoted one resident, 24 year-old Naomi Exint, as saying that part of her home was destroyed.

A professor, who asked that his name be withheld for security reasons said "Cite Soleil spent two months in peace but since Thursday the U.N. soldiers went out and started breaking down a few small houses, among them, some belonging to the gangs." To some Haitians, the gangs are known as chimere - paramilitary men with mythical powers that protect them from bullets who are fiercely loyal to the deposed president Jean-Bertrand Aristide. Since then, the situation has deteriorated. The professor believes that the U.N. thought the gangs in that area had handed over their weapons through the DDR process (Demobilization Disarmament and Reintegration Program run in coordination with the Preval administration and the U.N.) and that is why the U.N. demolished the houses.

Photographs taken by the U.N. suggest that all destroyed buildings were abandoned.

The Associated Press and Reuters published slightly differing accounts on the incident in which casualty counts range from two to three civilians killed in the clash between Brazilian U.N. troops and armed groups fiercely loyal to the deposed president Jean-Bertrand Aristide.

Brazilian U.N. military spokesman, Lt. Cmdr. Neuzivaldo Dos Anjos, maintains that the engineers came under attack and returned fire in self defense. The once narrow passageway runs along one side of the U.N. military base Strong Point 16 and connects with a main road.

No Brazilian peacekeepers were injured in the battle.

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The U.N. demolished the buildings without plans to compensate the homeowners or offer them an alternative plan. The residents fled their homes because the area sees an intense level of fighting. Although the residents had fled, they still considered the abandoned structures their homes.

Before 11:00 AM Saturday morning there was calm but the situation rapidly deteriorated as residents claim that the U.N. soldiers fired into a church filled with 300 parishioners and critically wounded three children, aged between five and eleven years-old. Three others fainted for more than three hours as the fire fight around the church lasted around two hours, residents say.

A 58 year-old woman alleges that the U.N. soldiers shot at them because they were digging a trench in the road in order to prevent APCs or tanks from passing through the area. "We don't need them in the area", she explains "they must go, because they cause us too much pain and we are afraid of them." The few roads that exist in Cité Soleil are being destroyed in order to hinder the mobility of U.N. troops who only patrol the slum in Armored Personnel Carriers. Local infrastructure has also been heavily damaged in the fighting.

The roads had just been built with money from USAID (United States Agency for International Development) in cooperation with the IOM (International Organization for Migration). "Digging trenches in the roads is the only we can stop the tanks", a teacher in his late forties explains. Earlier saturday morning, U.N. tractors came into the area and filled in many of the trenches.

"We're working for peace but the soldiers are working for war according to their attitudes", according to the teacher.

The teacher believed that the peace was going to be long lasting. "But since Thursday, when we were in the school, we heard the tanks coming and at the end, they started shooting." As the shooting continued, bullets went into the school. The children fell to the floor. The school was then closed and the children sent home. As the students were leaving the L'ecole le Normaliene, two girls, aged seven and eight years-old, were shot in the stomach and their intestines "spread out".

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Another man near the school was shot twice in the head near the market. "I would ask the president to ask the soldiers stay in the rules so the Cité Soleil people could live in peace", the teacher pleads.

"We're asking for justice," one pro-gang supporter says, "We're asking for the white people to leave."

"Why do people consider building a military base in Cité Soleil?", he asks, referring to the U.N. base there, Strong Point 16. "If they want to build a base, they can go to Titanyen." Titanyen was an old dumping ground for victims of Tonton Macoute violence during the Duvalier regimes. "With their presence this morning, three people have been killed."

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On Saturday, the approach to the Boston area of Cité Soleil from Boulevard Jean Jacques Dessalines, a once lively commercial district and the main artery in Port-au-Prince, is quiet. Many of the stores and industries have closed. Six, maybe seven United Nations Armored Personnel Carriers (APCs), from China, Peru and Jordan, have permanent positions here. A large barricade has been constructed in front of the abandoned Texaco station. Behind it, four APCs take strategic positions. The buildings have been damaged by thousands of bullet holes - two years of near warfare have all but destroyed the area.

Six Peruvian and Brazilian APCs rumble into Boston. Amos, a journalist from Radio Metropole and I begin interviewing residents. Two minutes later, automatic weapons fire erupts and the street empties. The Colonel, a "chimere", has opened fire on U.N. forces. Amos records everything on his tape recorder which infuriates the Colonel. "Fuck! He recorded me! I'm going to kill that mother fucker journalist!" While other armed men are shooting at MINUSTAH, the Colonel fires three bursts at Amos. One bullet grazes his back.

All of Amos' recordings are then destroyed.

Children laugh at the Colonel because he was unable to kill Amos. In response, the Colonel jokingly tells them to go stand by the road so he can shoot them. Amos tells me that children with sacks and buckets filled with ammunition reload empty cartridges and distribute them to the chimere during the fight.

The armed groups have a plethora of weapons, among them; AK-47s, M14s, M16s and an assortment of handguns. Clips are taped together: after one clip empties, it is flipped over and and the fresh clip put in.

Leaving the alley and moving towards Strong Point 16, automatic weapons fire fills the street. We flee to another ally. Many children laugh during the fire fight as they find my reactions funny. They jokingly ask me why white people find gun fire scary - "they like killing." Some of the children, six years and older, have bullet wounds.

The fight rages on and off for more than an hour, but it was more on than off. We escape through a safe passage during a lull in the fighting. We learn that there have been two casualties and and unknown number of wounded. Final casualty counts are unknown, as we didn't see the fight through.

October 21, 2006

Cite Militaire: Aid Distribution

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Brazilian members of the United Nations Stabilization Mission in Haiti (MINUSTAH) make weekly visits to the bullet riddled Ecole Mixte Le Cerveau in the Cite Militaire neighborhood of Port-au-Prince in order to distribute aid and educate the students on topics such as hygiene.

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Careful attention is payed to hygiene education. Skits put on by the soldiers attempt to educate the children on washing and taking care of their bodies. Other anecdotes like songs are used to educate and keep the students engaged and attentive. In the above photo, a demonstration on proper brushing techniques is given to the students.

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Water distribution is also an important component to MINUSTAH's operation here. After demonstrations on hygiene and exercise, the children are given bags filled with toothbrushs and school supplies; pens, pencils, erasers, pencil sharpeners and notebooks. At the end, the children are given snacks and juice and watch a movie about Brazilian soldiers.

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When eating everyday is a struggle for the vast majority of Haitians, it is little wonder that many schools in Haiti are inadequately equipped; a lack of reading material and school supplies is common - not to mention they are often without electricity, poorly staffed and the facilities themselves are often nothing more than a room with benches and, if lucky, a chalkboard or two. The Brazilian effort is an attempt to establish trust within the Cite Militaire community in hopes that it will then allow for more cooperation and trust between MINUSTAH and the population. Brazilian engineers are building a road in Cite Militaire with the cooperation of the International Organization for Migration (IOM). One month ago, soldiers could not stand on the roof of the school - where the majority of their operation takes place - without taking on fire. It's a positive step, but the root problems must be addressed and potential 'fixes' debated vigorously by the community, if the mission is to succeed.

October 19, 2006

Thomazeau: Police Kill Civilian

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Last night, in the town of Thomazeau, the Haitian National Police (PNH) killed a young man after a dispute with his sister. He was beaten by the police, jailed, "escaped" and was, finally, mortally shot in the back.

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The citizens of Thomazeau were enraged at the killing; impromptu barricades and roadblocks were constructed with burning tires, rocks and any thing else close by. A roadblock was built in front of the police station and a car torched. The police fired bursts of gunshots into the air to disperse crowds and the situation remained explosive well into the morning. The United Nations was dispatched to the town and the situation was "pacified" but an atmosphere of anger and resentment at the killing still held sway. The United Nations police force will investigate the killing.

The Haitian National Police have a reputation and long history of summary executions, rape, torture and murder. In the past, and many will argue, today, the police are used as means of suppressing popular peasant movements, organizations and the will of the poor in order to satisfy the needs of the bourgeoisie. The people of Thomazeau have no faith in the police - a similar sentiment here in Haiti - even as the Preval administration attempts to reform the Haitian National Police force. What this means for the reconciliation and reintegration effort of the PNH into the community remains to be seen. But the reverberations of the killing in Thomazeau will be felt throughout the country.

Cite Soleil: Human Rights Abuses

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October 10, 2006

US Ambassador Visits Cite Soleil

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Today, with her Embassy detachment and two UN Armored Personnel Carriers, US Ambassador to Haiti, Janet A. Sanderson, tours what some call one of the world's worst slums, Cite Soleil.

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I can't help but wonder what good a whirlwind tour of Soleil does for anyone, especially the people who live here. Ambassador Sanderson is whisked away from one point of interest to the next, stopping briefly at the United Nations Stabilization Mission in Haiti's (MINUSTAH) base in Cite Soleil, Strong Point 16, chatting with the head of the UN force in Haiti, General Jose Elito Carvalho de Siqueira and taking snap shots with important people. I think it's wonderful that Ambassador Sanderson visited Cite Soleil, however briefly, but the most important thing she could have done - talking with the people of Cite Soleil - she was unable to do. I understand the security concerns, but it could have been possible to listen to the people's stories and hear their concerns and hopes for the future. The goal of the Ambassador's visit? A driving tour, her security detachment tells me. What she does with whatever information she gleaned from her short trip here, I am not sure. I don't expect Ambassador Sanderson to wave a magic wand and fix the problems in Cite Soleil, but I do expect a certain level of engagement with the people here. The convoy heads out of Soleil to Base Bravo, the Brazilian UN headquarters in Port-au-Prince where it is easier to talk about Haiti's problems - further from them in comfortable, air-conditioned rooms.

Back on the streets, I run into a group of people who tell me MINUSTAH has just been here. Allegedly, they had conducted a raid in a house, abused one of the occupants who was sleeping after they saw that he was unarmed and stole his cell phone and necklace. A UN jeep with Brazilian soldiers passes by, presumably the ones who conducted the alleged raid, and sends everyone into an uproar. Travelling throughout Cite Soleil, similar stories can be heard.

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The truth? I'm not quite sure. Meanwhile, life goes on in the City of Sun and in the above photo, people buy water.

Cite Soleil: Pou Demen Ka Pi Bel

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On the 8th, October, the people of Cite Soleil gathered together to listen to music and celebrate the possibility of renewed and lasting peace in the, "Dezamen Ak La Pe, Ann Fel Ansamn Pou Demen Ka Pi Bel", or, "Disarmament With Peace, We'll Do It Together For a Better Tomorrow" festival.

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The people of Cite Soleil are tired of violence, as I have written before, and want peace, reconciliation with the Haitian National Police (PNH), and a better future for their children. A few thousand people attended the event over the course of the day and CIMO, the paramilitary police unit, similiar to SWAT in the US, came in a show of good faith and to provide security. The PNH made their first patrol in Cite Soleil on the forth of October, after months of absence after having indiscriminately killed many civilians and enraging the population.

Preval has clamped down on the corrupt PNH and everyone I have spoken with now see them as a good factor in the community and welcome their patrols. Many in Cite Soleil see the problems here as Haitian, which many are, and want the PNH back and MINUSTAH out. They tell me they don't want international peacekeepers "fixing" Haitian problems. For this reason, reconciliation with the police and CIMO is desired by many Haitians. In other areas of Port-au-Prince however, MINUSTAH is well liked and is seen as effecting positive change. Everyone I ask says something slightly different.

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Many artists showed their support by performing at the event and everyone in attendance had a great time singing, dancing, enjoying the music in support of a "demen ka pi bel", a tomorrow that can be better. Things are looking up, but for how long?

October 06, 2006

Cite Soleil: Chapter I

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Cite Soleil is the largest slum in the western hemisphere. Crowded and squalid, desperation reigns supreme here. It is the battleground between Brazilian United Nations troops and the gangs. Bullet holes and pock marks scar most buildings; some have been reduced to rubble. Most are sick of the fighting and want MINUSTAH, The United Nations Stabilization Mission in Haiti, to go.

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Most people who have heard of Cite Soleil have heard only of the gangs, violence and extreme poverty. That much is true, but there is life here. Fisherman can be seen fishing around the wharf and the coastline but the fishing is not what it once was. The fish are smaller and the fisherman have to go further out to sea.

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Living conditions are absymal here. Houses are constructed with whatever materials are available, which in most cases, isn't much. Scrap boards, tin and metal from cars can be used to construct modest dwellings. Many people don't have concrete floors, only dirt floors which makes the spreading of disease worse.

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The vast majority of children in Cite Soleil cannot attend school. Even the most affordable schools are out of the price range for people who survive on less than a dollar a day or nothing at all. Electricity, food and water, basic neccesities that many take for granted, are things that people struggle to acquire everyday.

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Contrary to popular belief about the mannerisms of the cocorats, a derogatory term used by some Haitians in reference to those who live in Cite Soleil, I was treated with great kindness by many people who took me by the hand and allowed me to photograph their lives. The class system is firmly entrenched in Haiti and it is common to hear people speaking with great contempt for those who live in Cite Soleil.

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Many find living under UN occupation humiliating. The people of Cite Soleil have lived under military occupation since the summer of 2004, shortly after former president Jean-Bertrand Aristide's forced departure. The UN mission has been tainted by allegations of slaughter and wrongdoing by the people of Cite Soleil. Like everything here, the truth is probably somewhere in the middle.

October 01, 2006

Lavalas: 'The Flood'

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Yesterday, in the capital, thousands of Lavalas supporters rallied in support of the deposed Jean-Bertrand Aristide, Haiti's former president, demanding his return from exile in South Africa. Aristide was ousted on February 29th, 2004, in a coup d'etat, that many Aristide supporters believe was orchestrated by the US, France and Canada.

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Many had grown disenchanted with Aristide, but for many others, especially in Port-au-Prince's poor neighborhoods, like Cite Soleil, Salino, and Belair, Aristide, or Titid, as he is called by his followers, was their only voice.

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The demonstration began at Jean-Bertrand Aristide's old church, Saint Jean Bosco, on Boulevard Jean Jacques Dessalines and made its way to Cite Soleil and eventually to the Belair neighborhood.

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The emotion expressed by the demonstrators was incredible. The energy never let up.

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The rally began and ended peacefully. Here, a man blows a conch shell while leading the demonstration out of Cite Soleil. The Haitian Revolution that kicked out the French in 1804, began in earnest in 1791. To Haitians, the conch shell is synonymous with that struggle for freedom as the mawons, escaped slaves who lived in the mountains, came down from the hills blowing conch shells to declare war on the French plantation owners.

The Haiti Only Haitians Know

Wahoo Bay Beach Club & Resort, Carries, Haiti:

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On the weekends, when people who work for the United Nations go to Wahoo, the resort is packed. Five out of seven days of the week however, the resort is mostly empty. Haiti's tourism industry is nearly non-existant after having been quite succesful in the mid-twentieth century. The money that tourism would bring to the island would have the potential to change the country. Among other things, such as reforestation, a strong tourist economy is an essential component to Haiti's longterm growth and health.

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Places like Wahoo are gems that not many outside of Haiti know about. Rumor has it that the old Club Med near St. Marc is reopening on November 1st. There is reason to be hopeful.

First, before any longterm economic growth can occur, people need to overcome their preconceptions about the island and make a trip to the country to see things for themselves. Haiti can only be helped if people are willing to give her a fair shot.

Here in PAP

Been in Port-au-Prince now since Tuesday. The internet at l'Habitation Hatt has been, at best, bad. I'm at the Visa Lodge right now where the internet works. I have two stories: one on a beach resort called Wahoo Bay and another on a Lavalas demonstration demanding the former president Aristide's return. The two stories represent a dichotomous Haiti. One of an island paradise and the other of a country still in the midst of political turmoil. I will post two photos from the story and the accompanying text soon.

An update on the situation in PAP: The situation here is very 'calm'. I'm blown away. In June, it was very tense. Since the beginning of September, everything has been calm I am told. Even in Cite Soleil, the situation is much better. We'll have to wait and see how long the calm will stay.